December 30th 2016
The Plan For The Baja Chase
It’s morning and day five of the Baja Chase to Cabo in Baja Sur, I head over to the restaurant. So we have the set breakfast. It’s the same as Guillermos, scrambled eggs, bacon hash browns, pancakes and toast. As it’s a set breakfast it comes quickly, allowing us plenty of time to enjoy it.
So today’s plan is for the riders to head to Puerto San Carlos Baja Sur, an industrial town on the Pacific coast. Then Ricky and I are going to meet them there this evening. Hence we won’t see them all day as our route is going to take us around the mountains, they can go over.
So the riders line up as Ricky and I have finished our checks and helped them gear up. Now it’s time to head out, a few wheelies are pulled as they leave the parking lot, excited for today’s adventure. So we stow the remaining gear, preparing for departure on our Baja chase.
Baja Chase On The Road Again
In the meantime we have performed our Baja Chase ritual of sweeping rooms and checking out of the hotel. So it’s now our turn to jump on the road, we’re heading past San Ignacio Mission, we don’t stop wanting to spend some extra time in Mulege. As Ricky points, I see a Semi Truck cab that is up on blocks. Then I quickly realize It has been converted into someone’s house.
So back on Hwy 1, our next destination is the coastal town of Santa Rosalia Baja Sur. It is on the Sea Of Cortez coast. Then I marvel at the thought “I’ll be on the Pacific Coast tonight!”, the opposite coast of Baja.
Santa Rosalia Baja Sur
Now as we come down the mountain the Sea Of Cortez bursts into view, I always love a good ocean view. Then at sea level Hwy 1 takes us towards town, it’s taken us a little over an hour. Next just outside of town Ricky points to a derelict factory and some mud slides. So he tells me the story of a big flood that came through, causing a lot of damage and a number of deaths.
First the plan is to fuel up in town, grab some snacks and continue our Baja chase down Hwy 1 to Mulege. Then Ricky assures me “Mulege is something special”. With fueling up completed I spot an abandoned car. So it seems like it’s become a collection point for all manor of hoses and inner tubes. I’m amazed as this is in town near the shops.
El Tiburon
The chase truck is eating the miles, we pass through a small town, El Tiburon. So Ricky proceeds to tell me “There’s lots of foreigners here”. Then as I look out of the window we cross a bridge. There’s a river that runs through town, it has a very tropical feel to it. Indeed I can see why “foreigners” would want to be here.
Mulege El Burro
Now Leaving El Tiburon we are heading to Mulege, to El Burro bay to be exact. So Ricky tells me “My family has a house on the beach here”. “Well count me in!” I think to myself. Coming down the grade I’m greeted with amazing views of the bays. Then this reminds me somewhat of Bahia De Los Angeles, in its sheer beauty.
What’s Up Beaches
Then we pull off of Hwy 1 and enter the beach of El Burro, it’s only taken about an hour from Santa Rosalia. So Ricky drives the chase truck along the sand behind a row of houses that are literally on the beach. I’m in love with this place already. He navigates to his family’s house, slides the truck alongside and we jump out.
Boat Ride
I follow Ricky down the beach he wants to see if Sam is around. Then as we get to Sam’s place he’s sitting out front with his wife, “Hey Ricky!” he calls out, “You want a boat ride?”. “You know it ” Ricky replies. Sam’s an American that has lived down here for many years. It turns out Ricky has know him since he was a kid. So Sam leads us over to his 16 foot skiff with a 90hp engine, perfect for bay cruising and fishing.
Sam takes us out into the bay and gives us the “tour”. He points out the Grey Whales that are swimming in the bay. Their size is amazing, it’s great being this close to nature. “I got a new jump spot” Sam tells Ricky, “You want to try it?”, “Of course ” responds Ricky.
Sam pilots us through the bay to one of the little islands. They’re not really islands more like rock formations rising from the sea. So Sam points out a ledge and a barely visible path, ” Right there” he declares, “Ok I’m ready” replies Ricky. Jumping overboard Ricky swims to the start of the path, the jump point is pretty high up the rock.
Jump!
Now Ricky gets to the ledge, that Sam had been pointing to. He gets positioned and reviews his jump strategy. So we count him down three, two, one and jump! Ricky fly’s off the edge and into the water below, “That was awesome” he screams in delight
So it’s time to make a leisurely return trip to the beach. Sam points out a Scripps Research Vessel in the bay. In due time we arrive back on shore Sam proceeds to tie the boat up. Next we say our thank you and goodbyes and head back to the truck.
Everything’s looking good with the truck. Ricky has one last task he wants to complete while we are here. Without delay he hands me a bunch of stickers he says ” I want to tag my house”. So he starts adding “Elbraaapo” stickers to the boarding of his family’s house, I gladly help out!
Onwards
After leaving El Burro we join Hwy 1, our next stop is a town called Constitucion. This is going to be a long run, we pass through Loreto. I have heard of this town from some buddies who hit it a few years ago. Because time is a little tight we blow on through.
Leaving Loreto we proceed up the mountain, this road seems to go forever! At the top it levels out and there is nothing to see for miles around except open land. Now as we near Constitucion buildings start to populate alongside the road. Sporadically at first then with increasing density.
Constitucion Baja Sur
As Constitucion comes into view, we stop at the Gas station on the edge of town, to fill up and stretch our legs. It seems like we have been on the road forever, actually it’s been just under four hours. So I decide to use the restrooms, they are really nice, modern and clean, a pleasant surprise for a weary traveler. Business taken care of I run into the store and grab some snacks for the next leg. Returning to the truck I hear Ricky hollah to one of the attendants. ” Hey Primo” he comes over to fill our truck. I ask Ricky what “Primo” means, ” Cousin” he responds. So now I ask him why he’s calling the attendants Primo instead of Amigo? He tells me “We’re in Baja Sur (south). They have a different accent down here, I sound different to them”. Now there’s something I hadn’t considered.
Puerto San Carlos Baja Sur
After our brief stop in Constitucion we head on Hwy 22, for about an hour, this will take us into the coastal town of Puerto San Carlos. Just before getting to town there is a huge power station with equally large diesel tanks, it’s pretty impressive. So we cruise on by, to our final destination for today, Hotel Alcatraz.
hotel Alcatraz
Hotel Alcatraz is a charming little place in Puerto San Carlos, with a nice enclosed courtyard. The team is already here and enjoying drinks as we walk in. “Where have guys been?” a chorus erupts from the riders, “Man that’s a long drive” I respond. Because it’s probably just over six hours of driving, if you straight shot it. The riders are all excited, apparently the last part of the ride was super fun, lots of wide open throttle. They’re all grinning like they’ve just been on a first date.
Chow Time
The owner has setup tables in the courtyard, we congregate at the table as he suggests the set feast. He makes sure more buckets of beer are bought out. As the feast arrives, I take it all in. There are plates upon plates of all different types of Mexican dishes. Challenge accepted we all help ourselves until full, it would be rude not to.
Night Life
With dinner complete it’s decided to head out into town to see what Puerto San Carlos has to offer. Due to the holidays, I assume it seems like everything is closed in town. Finally we see a bar with a light on, upon strolling in the place is empty. Now I mean empty no staff or anything, rather odd. So we decide to start the return to the hotel.
A taxi pulls up to us and asks “Need a ride?”. Do you know any bars that are open?. “Maybe ” he responds “Jump in”. The taxi is a minivan it can hold about six people. Because of this size constraint we split the team into two waves. So the taxi drops us outside of a bar that appears deserted. “The owner is coming ” says the taxi driver as he takes off to collect the rest of us. A local cat takes a liking to Chris.
The owner of the bar shows up, with crates of beer and ice. He then turns to us and says “One minute guys”, as he dashes around the back of the building keys in hand. Shortly after the lights come on, music starts up and the doors are opened. We Step inside, I notice it’s a small place with a stripper pole, a small bar and cold beer, this will do. So Ricky proceeds to entertain us at the pole, as we knock back some beers, relax and laugh.
So after a few more beers and laughs we head back to the hotel for the night. Getting back to the hotel we are greeted at the gate by a guard. “Are you staying here” he asks ” the bikes right?” “Right” we all reply. He proceeds to check us in. Bedtime!
Good Night from Puerto San Carlos