Day 1 December 26th 2016
It’s 4 am as the hotel alarm clock screeches to life reminding me it’s time to get up. Not necessary as I haven’t really slept. I am about to embark on an adventure of a lifetime, driving a Chase Truck in Baja! Jump out of bed and into the shower “let’s do this” I think to myself. After getting dressed and making sure my gear is stowed in my backpack there’s a knock on my hotel door, it’s Jim my good friend and partner in crime for this caper. “You ready for this?” he asks, “Hell yeah” I reply.
Now together we make our way down in the elevator, the Christmas tree is still lit in the lobby. The desk clerk spy’s us and suggests we grab a “go pack” for our journey. Coffees and go packs in hand we head out to the truck. I take a quick look at our “go pack”. Power bar, apple, raisins, cookies and some mints, nice I think to myself.
To The Rendezvous and The Mission
It’s time to head to the rendezvous point at John’s house, around the corner from the hotel, a place I first visited late last night to drop gear and bikes. Here half our team will assemble and I will get to meet my co chase driver “Ricky Bobby” for the first time. Ricky shows up and introductions are taken care of. Dam it’s cold out at 4:30am probably shouldn’t be wearing shorts
Ricky and I will be “Chasing” a team of the mildly insane. Team El Braaapo. The Mission: Ride dirt bikes from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas at the tip of the Baja peninsula Mexico, some 1400 odd miles. This journey will take us through some of the most beautiful, desolate and dangerous terrain Baja has to offer.
So how did I get to participate in this adventure you may ask? For the last six months, the trip has been meticulously planned by John the team leader. Due to scheduling issues and inevitable dropouts a spot has opened up for me to chase the trip, I commit right away.
This is one month before we are due to leave. Usually at the time of year the trip is planned for I am in England, my annual jaunt back to the motherland to spend Christmas and New Years with family and friends. I cancel the trip and inform the family I won’t be home this year. Yep I’m off to do something crazy again.
The next month is spent googling Baja chase truck, Baja, dirt bikes and everything in between. There’s scant results pertaining to our mission. Not too concerned. I’m a good mechanic, logical thinker, and stubborn as hell. We’ll get this done! I pick up some gloves, a headlamp and a small med kit.
Baja Chase Truck
Meanwhile at the rendezvous Ricky and I are admiring our Baja chase truck. The truck in question is a 97 Ford F350 diesel 4×4 long bed. She belongs to Chris who joins Ricky and I to show us the modifications that make this beast a true Baja chase truck.
Chris is a professional Trophy Truck Navigator, adventurer and adrenaline junkie! In his teens he extensively traveled South America and has some great stories about that adventure. Also he’s one of the nicest guys you’ll ever meet. So I’m Pretty sure he knows what he’s doing setting up a Baja chase truck.
Baja Chase Truck The Details
First off the truck maybe a 97 but the heart is a 2002 7.3 Power Stroke diesel engine with 6 speed manual transmission and a ceramic clutch. Chris explains how the clutch can be a bit “grabby”. It’s has been gone through by a master diesel mechanic who also performed the transplant.
There’s a Schwitzer S300 turbo and a super duty intercooler. She has a custom ECU tune, cold air intake, matched by 3 inch downpipes into a 4 inch exhaust. New slotted rotors and calipers and Mag Hytec differentials.
That being said she’s also lifted 4 inches and sitting on a set of 35 inch BFG tires. There’s a custom rack that extends over the roof, which is filled with gear bags, spare parts, tools and lube boxes. Also the spare tires for the truck are strapped to either side. Additionally in the bed we have more part boxes, coolers and a spare KTM 450 for parts or bailout.
Electronics
On the front we have some PIAA spotlights with a nice hefty bull bar. In the cabin a surprisingly good sounding stereo, which is using an old iPhone for the music library via Bluetooth. Also there’s a set of Autometer gauges monitoring EGT, Trans and Boost on the door pillar and a race radio to talk to the riders. Now the centerpiece is a huge Garmin GPS Satnav to help us on our way. We will also be towing a ten bike trailer for the extraction at the end of the trip. So This Baja chase truck will do very nicely!
Chris as a rider has also spent a lot of time making a chase truck. I ask him why? He replies “So you my friends can go chase and experience these adventures and help me out”. Notably that’s the spirit of what we do. That’s some Moto Zen right there!
We’re Off!
Riders ready. John, Jim and Chris are double checking the bikes and then gearing up. Gentlemen start your engines. Time to head out on the road, or “slab” as the riders like to call it. So we’re to meet up with three more team members at a gas station a few miles down the slab. We pull in and swoop up Robert, Tom and Kevin. Next stop the border at Tecate where Andy and Fred will join the group
Tecate Border Crossing
Tecate has a coffee stand this side of the border, I grab a hot chocolate. The sun is threatening to come up as the light gets brighter. So farewells are said to the friends and family that have come to see the team off. We will see some of them again in Cabo for New Years…
The formation heads to the border with bikes leading and of course the chase following. Bikes are all through the border it’s our turn to cross. “Papers please” the border guard asks. So Ricky dutifully hands over our papers. After what seems like an eternity “Where is the trailer registration?” the guard asks. Shit we don’t appear to have it and the only person who would know is Robert. He is way ahead of us in Mexico and by now out of radio range. We have insurance documents on the trailer and thankfully Ricky is an Ensenada native. So after a long conversation he convinces the guard to let us through. Wish I knew more Spanish.
Baja Mexico!
Now passing through the border I marvel at how close houses and businesses are to the checkpoint. Then we are clear of Tecate and are on the open road of Hwy 3 winding through picturesque mountains. Ricky points out a crazy hotel with “pods” on the hillside, mind blown I have seen this place on “Crossing South” a show on PBS all about Baja. So now we pass through wine country and vineyards stretch for miles.
The highway has been really nice and modern until we crest a corner and I get my first taste of how unpredictable roads are down here. The blacktop disappears, it’s been washed away, there is nothing but dirt and sporadic rocks for the next few miles. Now this doesn’t seem to slow down the semi trucks hurtling towards us on this narrow temporary dirt road.
Ensenada
Making good time we detour to Ricky’s parents’ house in Ensenada. Entering Ensenada Ricky points out his families hotel and Cantina before our arrival at the Casa. Here I meet Ricky’s mom, who proceeds to make us an amazing breakfast. I learn the secret for the best breakfast quesadillas Ricky’s mother informs me “ is the tortilla” sourced from a local bakery. While breakfast devoured, I thank Ricky’s mom. We head out of Ensenada passing by Ricky’s father’s shop. Here they work on all kinds of trucks and off road vehicles, time is getting short so we skip the tour and fly on by.
Gas stop to diesel up the truck and fill the dump cans. Pit tip: diesel and gas up wherever you can, you can’t always be sure the gas stations will be open or carrying what you need. Now we start rolling on Hwy 1 to our first rendezvous, restaurant Acambaro in Grulla, it’s about an hour drive.
Acambaro
A crazy little place full of trinkets, memorabilia and a wall of skulls across the back of the yard. We wait for the team to arrive, about two hours. As a rule the life of the chaser is a lot of waiting and then spontaneous reaction, I grab a hot chocolate.
Time To Work
The riders arrive, duly dismount and enter the restaurant. Finally Ricky and I spring into action. It’s time for the Chase crew to work. So I grab my gloves as we start to fuel and check all eight bikes. Man these dump cans are heavy, we are using 5 gallon dumps. As a result as I stab the tank Ricky angles the can. A two man crew makes this nice and smooth with no spills.
We check, oil sight windows and make sure the oil level looks good, clean and no milk. Time to also look for obvious issues, on the suspension and drivetrain. It’s our job to call a fail if we see it.
The outside of Acambaro is covered with stickers from previous riders and teams. Therefore we dutifully apply our team El Braaapo stickers in any space we can find. Tasks complete we join the team in the restaurant.
The guys recount the trip so far, the ride has been cold but a lot of fun. Smiles all around. However Chris has taken a hard fall on the ice up in the mountains, he’s soldiering on despite considerable pain in his shoulder, fortunately no med kit is needed.
So Riders are fed and watered, time to move on. Because the team are going over the mountains and dirt, Chase is going around, we’ll meet them in the small fishing town of San Quintin. It’s about a two and a half hour drive on Hwy 1.
Check Point
Shortly after we leave Grulla there is a military checkpoint on the road.
Pit Tip: Open ALL of your windows before you get there and obviously be polite and respectful. The young soldier asks us our destination and what we’re up to. He has a M16 slung over his shoulder and his comrades look on from a Hummer parked nearby. Briefly Ricky tells him “San Quintin” and that we are “supporting the motos”. I smile handing over a fist full of Elbraaapo stickers. He’s satisfied after a quick look over the truck and sends us on our way.
San Quintin
As we enter San Quintin Ricky tells me we must stop and grab hot dogs from a place called Hot Dogs California. It’s a surprisingly busy little restaurant. The hot dogs are excellent and come with an amazing array of toppings that only Mexico could dream up. We throw a few El Braaapo stickers up on the window.
Don Eddie’s
On to Don Eddie’s, which will be our home for the night. Because uncle Bill has a boat down here, he’s asked me to check on her, she’s called No Ship, I ship you knot! I walk over to the boat and climb onboard, Uncle Bill wants a couple of pictures of the engine numbers. First I call Uncle Bill and ask him where to look. As I lift the engine hatch a voice shouts at me “What the hell are you doing?” It’s the owner of Don Eddie’s, Tony. So I hand the phone over and say here speak to Uncle Bill. After they talk for a minute, Tony laughs and says “Come join me at the bar when you are done”.
Check In
Ricky and I check in, get the keys and unload the riders gear bags into the rooms. Pit Tip: Label your bag well so we know where it goes. Each room has several beds and framed pictures of big fish catches. Finally I spy Uncle Bill in one of the pictures! As a result I guess this is my room. So with a toilet and shower for each room, it’s a perfect bunkhouse for fishing trips or crews riding Baja.
I head over to join Tony at the bar and enjoy a couple of cold ones. So we proceed to tell Uncle Bill stories. Whilst we wait for the team to arrive I log into the free WiFi and connect with another life. It’s just before sunset as we hear the sounds of bikes and the team arrives.
Having had an epic ride the guys lets us know of any issues on the bikes, nothing major. I don my gloves and head lamp. A minute later we stage the bikes and do our refueling, checks and maintenance. Finally I think to myself everything is looking pretty good so far!
Out Back
The riders are getting cleaned up so Ricky and I head out back. Here I see a boat marooned in a beautiful bay, pretty sure you would never see this state side.
I watch sunset over the bay, it’s time to see what the local vendors are offering. So there’s an array of handmade goods and trinkets spread across several stands. Because Ricky picks up a poncho, I’m tempted to get a sombrero. We head back to the bar where the riders are assembling for some pre-dinner drinks.
So Tony gives us pride of place in the restaurant and proceeds to ply us with amazing chips, dips and salsa for appetizers. Beer is flowing and we have a great dinner full of ride stories and ball busting. It’s what we do! So the group retires a little while after dinner, ready for an early start. Ricky and I put our headlamps on and do one last check of the bikes to make sure they are secure for the night. Day one’s in the books.
